Started with a steep uphill and then a steep downhill with a spectacular view. Really enjoyed. That said I finally cracked and bought an old wood stick for 5 euros. Great investment. The steep downhills are murder on my knees.
We were supposed to do 31 km today but stopped at about 29km. The last bit was again uphill over a steep mud path. All four of us were exhausted and we finally all looked at each other and said we can’t do more. I kept telling myself “ when you think you can’t go on you are only 40% done” but it didn’t help.
We were between towns in a dark forest and stumbled upon a sign that pointed out an albergue. We assumed it was full but took a tiny detour and there it was this beautiful building.
They had beds. I CAN’T TELL YOU HOW IMPORTANT A BED IS… when walking the Camino. You basically fall on your knees and thank the heavens. and then you have a shower. And then you have a beer. Then you look for food. Showers are life changing experiences.
This albergue was started by a guy who had done multiple Camino walks and got into trouble in the Pyrenees once and had to be rescued. He decided to start an albergue in the pyrennes to help fellow walkers but there was too much bureaucracy. Then while wondering what to do he met the Bishop of this area and the bishop gave him this rundown Catholic Church (where we r staying tonight). The pilgrim is a Protestant from stuttgart Germany who was assigned a Catholic Church by the bishop. He worked to raise a boatload of money to refurbish and rebuilt the place from scratch with many well todo donors. I’m impressed by the good spirited camaraderie between the faiths. So we have a Protestant managed Catholic Church.
We as “pilgrims” were exhausted and stumbled upon it and found a bed. That works for me.